Copenhagen for the Active Explorer

Copenhagen may be more generally referred to as a capital of sophistication, style, and all things design. Below the surface is a city with much more to offer. From hidden bars and quirky gardens to winter swimming baths and underground exhibitions, this guide will help you experience the many layers that Copenhagen and its intricate citizens have to offer, predominantly in an outdoor sense.

Copenhagen is home to a healthy number of beloved green areas. During the summer months, parks such as Søndermarken and Frederiksberg Gardens host numerous music festivals and are fantastic places to spend time enjoying the cherished sun. Frederiksberg Gardens is connected to Copenhagen Zoo's elephant enclosure, providing a chance to witness elephants being fed. Søndermarken, near the recently established Carlsberg Byen, houses a former underground water reservoir (Cisternerne), which currently hosts various exhibitions revolving around the use of light.

Other gardens in and around the city, such as the Botanical Gardens, Ørstedsparken, Amager Fælled, Fælledparken, Kongens Have, Valbyparken (which also features a public frisbee golf course), the many cemeteries embraced by Danes for their spiritual significance, and the gardens surrounding Kastellet (the old military grounds), are definitely worth discovering. Amager Strand is the closest you’ll get to a natural beach in Copenhagen and is used for swimming in both summer and winter. It is located between the airport and the city via the metro.

Jægersborg Dyrehave, located on the fringes of northern Copenhagen, is a wild deer park with some lovely hidden gems to discover. I visited here on Christmas Day, and the place was absolutely stunning, not only in a crisp, white flora sense but also with charming small buildings, a quaint castle, and of course, deer. The nearest station is Klampenborg, also known for the popular theme park, Bakken.

There are also Thomas Damno’s six forgotten giants, made from all locally recycled scrap wood and materials, located around the western outskirts of Copenhagen. They can be reached by bicycle if you’re up for a more rigorous and lengthier bike journey. These giants are definitely worth a visit if you have extra time — allow a couple of days if you’re up for the full cycling adventure. It will also give you the chance to see suburban and outer Copenhagen and the lovely green areas that adorn them.

For somewhere picturesque not too far from Copenhagen by car, Dragør is a quaint old fishing village south of Copenhagen. There is a 27km walking track that will take you around the island of Amager to Dragør, a great way to experience the outdoors of Amager, where many large green areas are located, joining to the Øresund sea. This area was once the very unpopular industrial area of Copenhagen but is now a thriving residential hub.

Enjoy a dip in one of the many canals in Copenhagen — Islands Brygge is a personal favourite. In the summer months, it is packed with locals enjoying the chance to soak in some rays and bathe with a view of some of the city's most famous buildings such as the Opera House and Black Diamond (National Library). Winter bathing is also common here — if you’d like to combine this with using a sauna, there are some options if you do your research. It’s also possible to hire a boat with a small group and take your time to enjoy all of Copenhagen’s canals with drinks and snacks. You do not need a license for this.

It goes without saying that Copenhagen boasts the world's best bicycle lanes. You can literally pedal yourself anywhere in this impeccably designed cycling city. Whether you hire a bike or are lucky enough to borrow one, it is highly recommended to brush up on some basic road rules. This may not completely avoid some sniggering and stares of bemusement from the locals, as there is a high chance you will interrupt their systemized daily routine, which heavily involves the rigors of cycling etiquette. Remember, this may often be the biggest single inconvenience a local may encounter in their well-planned day.

Once you’ve established bike lane etiquette, cycling in Copenhagen really is a breeze.

Walking is also a very good option if you’d rather avoid the politics of the bike lanes, and the metro is extremely well designed for ease of commute, connected via the airport.

Some of the main sights in Copenhagen can be reached on foot and explored over one or two days — Nyhavn, the Little Mermaid, Kastellet, and Amalienborg are all within close proximity to each other. Cross the bridge near Nyhavn and head left towards Christiania, where you can wander and enjoy the alternative and free side of Copenhagen. You can venture further to Reffen — a bustling street food market in the summer months. Here, you can also play padel tennis and do some rock climbing if you’re up for something more adrenaline based.

This area also boasts some of the most beautiful cobblestone streets that run along the canals of Christianshavn. There are cozy jazz bars and Danish bodegas if you’re up for some live music and a Tuborg or Carlsberg along the way. It’s legal in Copenhagen to drink in public places, so don’t be afraid to grab a drink and relax in one of your favourite outdoor gardens.

If you’re more inclined to be an active historian, there are many museums in Copenhagen such as Statens Museum for Kunst, Carlsberg Glyptotek, and the Jewish Museum, to name a few.

Just north of Copenhagen, accessible via metro, is Helsingør, home to Kronborg Castle, the Maritime Museum, and Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. One of my favourite memories in this area is jumping on a fishing boat with locals in winter and catching some Atlantic salmon and herring, all while keeping warm with some ‘fisherman’s shots’. I’ve also caught the ferry from Sweden here after a 5-day bike ride through the Swedish countryside.

The community of Roskilde, home to the world-famous Roskilde Festival, is only a short train ride from Copenhagen and boasts a well-renowned Viking Museum. Also worth a visit is Møns Klint, home to the much-loved chalk-white cliffs by the ocean in southern Denmark — I recommend hiring a car. If you have time to explore more of Denmark, Skagen and Aarhus are a must!

Of course, most of these activities are weather-dependent, but as the Danes often say, ‘there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad choice of clothing’. So, be prepared for the elements and dress accordingly.